10/8/08
There is good news and there is bad news. The good news is that we got to Kisangani okay. We met up with Daniel. He is from Belgium. He is very nice and had people help up in both Kinshasa and Kisangani when we were getting on and off the plane. He had us setup in nice hotel and he is helping us to get to Aketi. We are having a great time in here in Kisangani.
The bad news is that it looks like the only way we are getting to Aketi is by motorcycle. This would be a two day ride and we would have to camp out for one night, and that is if the motorcycles don't break down. Daniel is helping us with getting the bikes, so we might be here for a few days. I am not complaining though. This hotel is great.
Daniel, Laura and I had dinner last night. We talked with him about the chimps, Africa and all the great things he has done in his life. He has a lot more life than his age. We ate, drank and talked all evening.
Today we took a look at the road that is being built to the future site of the sanctuary. We had a chance to see the building of the road and the forest in Kisangani. The forests of Kisangani are so beautiful. They are pretty much untouched. The forests are tropical, exotic and breathtaking. It's a memory that will cherish for the rest of my life.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
On Bribery
I don’t think when I lived in Kenya that I ever needed to pay a bribe. Nor Rwanda. I once paid a bribe at the border in Uganda, because I had just crossed into Congo and had to go back to Uganda and didn’t feel like paying $30 for a one month visa when I was only going to be there for a day before I headed to Congo via Rwanda instead.
But overall, it was really not part of the culture. Why, then, is it so ubiquitous in Congo? What has happened here that elicits constant solicitation?
During our brief time in Kinshasa, in our $100 taxi ride to the office from the airport, we had a discussion of this topic with Bola, the immigrations officer who helped us with our transport and helped us out of $50.
I asked him whether his cost of living in Kinshasa was so high that he constantly needed more money, and he told me that he made $100 a month, but that his house cost $200 a month in rent. And he had 4 children and a wife. Thankfully, just one.
I asked him how it was possible to make rent when it was so much more than his salary, and he replied, very honestly, “Well, I need gifts from my friends.”
He continued on to say that we certainly didn’t have to give him any money, but that “we could if we wanted to.”
This conundrum also seems to be a constant theme. Is there anyone who is ever truly inspired to give bribes, unforced? Does anyone really wake up one morning and say “I’d love to pay money for nothing!” ??
While at the DGM’s office in Buta, Cleve was told this phrase MAKOLO NA NZILA by our friend who was there to supervise and prevent us from having to pay bribes. Of course, this phrase seemed to solicit bribes all on its own -- it means “Hand for the Road” but the idea behind it is that you came from another place, and need to give a little sugar for the road.
There is, of course, no real repercussion for not paying bribes. When Adam was nervous about our various official visits, I told him, frankly, that really, there were very few things that could be levied against us. I mean, our visas are for three months currently and I suppose they could be revoked or not-renewed, but we can’t be killed, or thrown in jail, so overall, the intimidation factor is mostly bark and no bite.
I’m still glad to be done with official visits. And hopefully in three months when it’s time to renew our visas, it’ll go off without a hitch!
But overall, it was really not part of the culture. Why, then, is it so ubiquitous in Congo? What has happened here that elicits constant solicitation?
During our brief time in Kinshasa, in our $100 taxi ride to the office from the airport, we had a discussion of this topic with Bola, the immigrations officer who helped us with our transport and helped us out of $50.
I asked him whether his cost of living in Kinshasa was so high that he constantly needed more money, and he told me that he made $100 a month, but that his house cost $200 a month in rent. And he had 4 children and a wife. Thankfully, just one.
I asked him how it was possible to make rent when it was so much more than his salary, and he replied, very honestly, “Well, I need gifts from my friends.”
He continued on to say that we certainly didn’t have to give him any money, but that “we could if we wanted to.”
This conundrum also seems to be a constant theme. Is there anyone who is ever truly inspired to give bribes, unforced? Does anyone really wake up one morning and say “I’d love to pay money for nothing!” ??
While at the DGM’s office in Buta, Cleve was told this phrase MAKOLO NA NZILA by our friend who was there to supervise and prevent us from having to pay bribes. Of course, this phrase seemed to solicit bribes all on its own -- it means “Hand for the Road” but the idea behind it is that you came from another place, and need to give a little sugar for the road.
There is, of course, no real repercussion for not paying bribes. When Adam was nervous about our various official visits, I told him, frankly, that really, there were very few things that could be levied against us. I mean, our visas are for three months currently and I suppose they could be revoked or not-renewed, but we can’t be killed, or thrown in jail, so overall, the intimidation factor is mostly bark and no bite.
I’m still glad to be done with official visits. And hopefully in three months when it’s time to renew our visas, it’ll go off without a hitch!
Yay Kinshasa! Yay Congo!
A lovely illegal airport photo, taken on the tarmac
Okay, so now we're in a new timezone, a new country, a new city, and a new feeling of clllleaaan.
Our ride is coming for us in only 25 minutes and I still want to brush my teeth so I'll make it quick:
We're in Kinshasa. We made it here okay, despite our night in Addis Ababa and our flight from Addis to Kinshasa -- which was turbulent, but mostly alarming because no one knew that red meant "Toilet Occupied" or the "Stay seated during takeoff and landing" wasn't optional.
Plus, everyone had TONS of bags, so everytime things got a little rough, the overhead compartments would come open, fun!
We also didn't find our ride at the airport, but it wasn't for lack of trying! This guy came up to us twice, holding a sign for Madamoiselle Roland, and I was sure he was looking for someone who wasn't me!
Silly -- I should have asked who sent him but was too tired. We still got helped by an immigration officer, 2 other people, AND a cab driver and managed to make our way to the office from our invitation letter. And it only cost us $170! Sheesh.
Our hotel is really nice -- they actually have AIR CONDITIONING and HOT WATER (woa) but absolutely NO mosquito nets. And many mosquitos. Too bad we were too tired to do anything but eat dinner and sleep.
Too tired to begin the training!
I did try to take a bath, but the water was pretty brown and the tub was teeeennny tiny. I'm still clean though!!
My French is SO MUCH BETTER, compared to the last time I was here! I mean, wow, everyone understands me and I'm able to have fully flushed conversations with people. It's awesome. I'm also learning some funny cultural things:
Tony, the guy at the office who helped us out today advised us not to use the words "J'ai besoin" in Congo (French for I need), because, if you need it, it's gonna COST YOU! Ha! So always use "Je voudrais" ... I want. Funny to know!
Off to Kisangani we go!
Our ride is coming for us in only 25 minutes and I still want to brush my teeth so I'll make it quick:
We're in Kinshasa. We made it here okay, despite our night in Addis Ababa and our flight from Addis to Kinshasa -- which was turbulent, but mostly alarming because no one knew that red meant "Toilet Occupied" or the "Stay seated during takeoff and landing" wasn't optional.
Plus, everyone had TONS of bags, so everytime things got a little rough, the overhead compartments would come open, fun!
We also didn't find our ride at the airport, but it wasn't for lack of trying! This guy came up to us twice, holding a sign for Madamoiselle Roland, and I was sure he was looking for someone who wasn't me!
Silly -- I should have asked who sent him but was too tired. We still got helped by an immigration officer, 2 other people, AND a cab driver and managed to make our way to the office from our invitation letter. And it only cost us $170! Sheesh.
Our hotel is really nice -- they actually have AIR CONDITIONING and HOT WATER (woa) but absolutely NO mosquito nets. And many mosquitos. Too bad we were too tired to do anything but eat dinner and sleep.
Too tired to begin the training!
I did try to take a bath, but the water was pretty brown and the tub was teeeennny tiny. I'm still clean though!!
My French is SO MUCH BETTER, compared to the last time I was here! I mean, wow, everyone understands me and I'm able to have fully flushed conversations with people. It's awesome. I'm also learning some funny cultural things:
Tony, the guy at the office who helped us out today advised us not to use the words "J'ai besoin" in Congo (French for I need), because, if you need it, it's gonna COST YOU! Ha! So always use "Je voudrais" ... I want. Funny to know!
Off to Kisangani we go!
Is this Kinshasa..... or Delhi?!
So after our night in the Addis Ababa airport, we took off for Congo. Our flight for Kinshasa left around 10:00 AM our time, with a brief stop in Brazzaville. The flight from Brazzaville to Kinshasa was literally 5 mins.
When we got to the Kinshasa airport, we were met by a "nice" immigration officer named Bola. I use quotation marks because he and his assistants were looking for a tip. In Bola's defense, he didn't ask for money. He said that if we wanted to pay him we could. I also say nice because he could have been a jerk about it but he was very helpful. He said, "I'm an immigration officer, this is what I do." So we gave him some money. He helped us find a cab and the office that sent our invitation and totally helped us bypass customs.
Supposedly, there was a driver sent for use, but we didn't find him, and found him?! There was a cab driver that approached Laura asking for Ms. Roland. We later found out that was the guy looking for us, but getting Laura's name wrong. We met up with Tony, a guy friends with Wasmoeth Wildlife and he set us up with a hotel and our plane tomorrow.
The whole experience of the airport and the city reminded me a lot of Delhi. I was like, replace the Africans with Indians, the French with Hindi and English and have people drive on the left side of the road (for the most part) and it's like I am back in India for my Uncle's wedding 10 years ago. The traffic, the smell, the landscape, it reminded me of Delhi. The smog and the nonsense traffic and the way people argued all brought a reminiscent smile to my face.
Anyways, I have to go for dinner and we have to get repack for tomorrow's flight to Kisangani but I will be back later. C'ya.
When we got to the Kinshasa airport, we were met by a "nice" immigration officer named Bola. I use quotation marks because he and his assistants were looking for a tip. In Bola's defense, he didn't ask for money. He said that if we wanted to pay him we could. I also say nice because he could have been a jerk about it but he was very helpful. He said, "I'm an immigration officer, this is what I do." So we gave him some money. He helped us find a cab and the office that sent our invitation and totally helped us bypass customs.
Supposedly, there was a driver sent for use, but we didn't find him, and found him?! There was a cab driver that approached Laura asking for Ms. Roland. We later found out that was the guy looking for us, but getting Laura's name wrong. We met up with Tony, a guy friends with Wasmoeth Wildlife and he set us up with a hotel and our plane tomorrow.
The whole experience of the airport and the city reminded me a lot of Delhi. I was like, replace the Africans with Indians, the French with Hindi and English and have people drive on the left side of the road (for the most part) and it's like I am back in India for my Uncle's wedding 10 years ago. The traffic, the smell, the landscape, it reminded me of Delhi. The smog and the nonsense traffic and the way people argued all brought a reminiscent smile to my face.
Anyways, I have to go for dinner and we have to get repack for tomorrow's flight to Kisangani but I will be back later. C'ya.
Monday, October 6, 2008
Frequently Asked Questions
What in the world are you guys doing in Congo?
We’re actually doing a few things! I’ve been hired to manage a chimpanzee halfway house -- an interim sanctuary set up out in Aketi (northern Congo) while we wait for a larger sanctuary in Kisangani, DRC to be finished!
UPDATE UPDATE The chimpanzees will no longer be going to Kisangani, but are scheduled to be flown out of Aketi, to eastern Congo and the Lwiro Primate Rehabilitation Center. For more information, check out this entry
I’m also working on my thesis with Columbia University -- studying the effects of gold and diamond miners flooding remote regions next to chimp-inhabited forests. It’s primarily disease-oriented, and it involves me interviewing lots of miners, villagers, and taking faecal samples from all of them, and the chimpanzees they live next to!
What’s the deal with all of these chimpanzees? Are they pets?
No, they are not pets! Any photos you see of chimpanzees on this site are of orphan chimpanzees we’ve had to confiscate from hunters and poachers and other people in Congo.
Although chimpanzees are “protected” by law here, the Democratic Republic of Congo is a HUGE country with not a lot of infrastructure, and chimpanzees are hunted voraciously here! Baby chimps are typically kept after their mothers have been shot and killed, and the hunter will try to sell it to cafés or to white people who believe that they are doing the right thing. For a real story of an orphan confiscated at our sanctuary, check out this entry.
Most of these baby chimps die, because in the wild, they are completely dependent on their mothers and their new “owners” have no idea how to care for them! Often their “care” is cruel -- and the orphans are chained to poles, fed very little, and languish alone until they die.
Our halfway house attempts to keep these chimpanzees alive, since chimpanzees are very endangered! The sanctuary attempts to mimic the forest life of the chimpanzees -- they are fed much of the same food, and we have trained caregivers who work as surrogate mothers for the chimpanzees.
Importantly, the chimpanzees can play with one another like they would in the forest, and spend most of the day in the trees, looking for food to eat!
I saw some pictures of a chimp in your house!
Orphaned chimpanzees, once confiscated, are often incredibly sick. Sometimes these illnesses are mild, and other times they can be caught not only by the other chimpanzees, but by people too! Chimpanzees and humans share 98.7% of their DNA, so diseases can be shared between the two species as well!
Anyone who has ever worked in a daycare center can tell you that little kids give each other diseases just as easily too!
It becomes very important, therefore, to quarantine each chimp before it is introduced to the sanctuary. During this period, the chimp must live away from the others. In our case, quarantined chimps lived in our house and we became their surrogate mothers during the quarantine period.
No, our house is not very much like a chimpanzee environment, but we still acted as surrogate mothers and, after 4-6 weeks, if the chimpanzee has exhibited no signs of serious illness, he or she can be introduced to the others at the sanctuary.
I will admit that we took a LOT of photos of the chimp quarantined in our house during the month of November/December, but I will reiterate that that chimpanzee is now in the sanctuary with the others.
Chimps are cute! I want one as a pet! Where can I get a chimpanzee for sale?
I think most people who work in the business can understand the chimpanzee’s appeal to outsiders. Sure, they’re cute and small when they’re babies, and chimpanzees’ intelligence gives a deeper and more profound connection to its “mother” than perhaps your gerbil Moe.
But people who want chimpanzees as pets don’t understand some crucial things: most importantly, that chimpanzee “pets” aren’t just sold in your local pet store. The pet trade in chimpanzees, a very rare and endangered species, fuels a horrible cycle of murder and abuse. Chimpanzee communities would never just “give up” an infant, and to take one from its mother you would have to kill its mother.
You certainly can’t say that for a dog or a cat.
Ever been to an animal shelter and seen all of the dogs for adoption that are around 7-9 months old? These dogs were given up by their owners because they became too unmanageable.
Chimpanzees become incredibly unmanageable too, and a LOT sooner. They are amazingly intelligent, mischievous, and, as they get bigger, VERY strong and very dangerous. An adult chimpanzee is 4-5 times stronger than a strong man, and even a juvenile chimpanzee could bite your fingers right off. Or worse!
Entertainment chimps that you see in the movies and on television are typically very young chimps, have been electrocuted to “train” them, and usually have had their canine teeth removed. It’s another cruel industry that I believe fewer people would support if they really knew the evils behind it.
I have a question about a photo/entry you posted! I don’t understand something!
Please, before you go assuming that I fry up chimpanzees and eat them for dinner because I posted a photo of a frying pan, email me.
I usually post pretty detailed explanations of what the photo is of, and I don’t think anyone who reads the blog regularly can say I’m not verbose.
But, if you’re still confused, or alarmed, or alarmed and confused, email me.
laura DOT darby AT gmail DOT com
We’re actually doing a few things! I’ve been hired to manage a chimpanzee halfway house -- an interim sanctuary set up out in Aketi (northern Congo) while we wait for a larger sanctuary in Kisangani, DRC to be finished!
UPDATE UPDATE The chimpanzees will no longer be going to Kisangani, but are scheduled to be flown out of Aketi, to eastern Congo and the Lwiro Primate Rehabilitation Center. For more information, check out this entry
I’m also working on my thesis with Columbia University -- studying the effects of gold and diamond miners flooding remote regions next to chimp-inhabited forests. It’s primarily disease-oriented, and it involves me interviewing lots of miners, villagers, and taking faecal samples from all of them, and the chimpanzees they live next to!
What’s the deal with all of these chimpanzees? Are they pets?
No, they are not pets! Any photos you see of chimpanzees on this site are of orphan chimpanzees we’ve had to confiscate from hunters and poachers and other people in Congo.
Although chimpanzees are “protected” by law here, the Democratic Republic of Congo is a HUGE country with not a lot of infrastructure, and chimpanzees are hunted voraciously here! Baby chimps are typically kept after their mothers have been shot and killed, and the hunter will try to sell it to cafés or to white people who believe that they are doing the right thing. For a real story of an orphan confiscated at our sanctuary, check out this entry.
Most of these baby chimps die, because in the wild, they are completely dependent on their mothers and their new “owners” have no idea how to care for them! Often their “care” is cruel -- and the orphans are chained to poles, fed very little, and languish alone until they die.
Our halfway house attempts to keep these chimpanzees alive, since chimpanzees are very endangered! The sanctuary attempts to mimic the forest life of the chimpanzees -- they are fed much of the same food, and we have trained caregivers who work as surrogate mothers for the chimpanzees.
Importantly, the chimpanzees can play with one another like they would in the forest, and spend most of the day in the trees, looking for food to eat!
I saw some pictures of a chimp in your house!
Orphaned chimpanzees, once confiscated, are often incredibly sick. Sometimes these illnesses are mild, and other times they can be caught not only by the other chimpanzees, but by people too! Chimpanzees and humans share 98.7% of their DNA, so diseases can be shared between the two species as well!
Anyone who has ever worked in a daycare center can tell you that little kids give each other diseases just as easily too!
It becomes very important, therefore, to quarantine each chimp before it is introduced to the sanctuary. During this period, the chimp must live away from the others. In our case, quarantined chimps lived in our house and we became their surrogate mothers during the quarantine period.
No, our house is not very much like a chimpanzee environment, but we still acted as surrogate mothers and, after 4-6 weeks, if the chimpanzee has exhibited no signs of serious illness, he or she can be introduced to the others at the sanctuary.
I will admit that we took a LOT of photos of the chimp quarantined in our house during the month of November/December, but I will reiterate that that chimpanzee is now in the sanctuary with the others.
Chimps are cute! I want one as a pet! Where can I get a chimpanzee for sale?
I think most people who work in the business can understand the chimpanzee’s appeal to outsiders. Sure, they’re cute and small when they’re babies, and chimpanzees’ intelligence gives a deeper and more profound connection to its “mother” than perhaps your gerbil Moe.
But people who want chimpanzees as pets don’t understand some crucial things: most importantly, that chimpanzee “pets” aren’t just sold in your local pet store. The pet trade in chimpanzees, a very rare and endangered species, fuels a horrible cycle of murder and abuse. Chimpanzee communities would never just “give up” an infant, and to take one from its mother you would have to kill its mother.
You certainly can’t say that for a dog or a cat.
Ever been to an animal shelter and seen all of the dogs for adoption that are around 7-9 months old? These dogs were given up by their owners because they became too unmanageable.
Chimpanzees become incredibly unmanageable too, and a LOT sooner. They are amazingly intelligent, mischievous, and, as they get bigger, VERY strong and very dangerous. An adult chimpanzee is 4-5 times stronger than a strong man, and even a juvenile chimpanzee could bite your fingers right off. Or worse!
Entertainment chimps that you see in the movies and on television are typically very young chimps, have been electrocuted to “train” them, and usually have had their canine teeth removed. It’s another cruel industry that I believe fewer people would support if they really knew the evils behind it.
I have a question about a photo/entry you posted! I don’t understand something!
Please, before you go assuming that I fry up chimpanzees and eat them for dinner because I posted a photo of a frying pan, email me.
I usually post pretty detailed explanations of what the photo is of, and I don’t think anyone who reads the blog regularly can say I’m not verbose.
But, if you’re still confused, or alarmed, or alarmed and confused, email me.
laura DOT darby AT gmail DOT com
Aye Aye Ababa
10/6/2008
Aye Aye Ababa
We have completed our first leg of the trip and we are now in Addis Ababa. The flight here from Dulles wasn't bad and seemed shorter than expected, to me at least. The food was decent, the people were nice. There was an arrogant business man who tried to con his way to business class. They didn't let him and he had to sit in coach. When we finally got here, it was different.
After getting our transit visas from a line that was a million years long, we were about to leave and go to the hotel that was being provided for us by Ethiopian Airlines. As we are about to leave, customs wanted to know what we had in our carry-on. We said two laptops and a projector. They wanted us to check in our LCD projector with them and pick it up in the morning. We were like f**k that. We did want to lose it to customs. Even though they guaranteed a safe return, Laura knew enough to know that isn't wise.
So we are spending the night in the lounge at the airport. The lounge is cool though, there is free food, stale but free, free beer and free Internet. I was able to gchat with my friends Johnny and Charlie Shryock. I also was able to send an email to people, telling them we are okay. I checked football scores (Redskins come from behind victory was sweet) and find out my fantasy football team fell apart this week. All-in-all, it's good. We are now waiting for our flight to Kinshasa, which will take off in eight hours. I can't wait to get to Aketi and finish traveling. We are watching Shawshank Redemption now. I will write again soon, once we have Internet again. Write to you later.
Aye Aye Ababa
We have completed our first leg of the trip and we are now in Addis Ababa. The flight here from Dulles wasn't bad and seemed shorter than expected, to me at least. The food was decent, the people were nice. There was an arrogant business man who tried to con his way to business class. They didn't let him and he had to sit in coach. When we finally got here, it was different.
After getting our transit visas from a line that was a million years long, we were about to leave and go to the hotel that was being provided for us by Ethiopian Airlines. As we are about to leave, customs wanted to know what we had in our carry-on. We said two laptops and a projector. They wanted us to check in our LCD projector with them and pick it up in the morning. We were like f**k that. We did want to lose it to customs. Even though they guaranteed a safe return, Laura knew enough to know that isn't wise.
So we are spending the night in the lounge at the airport. The lounge is cool though, there is free food, stale but free, free beer and free Internet. I was able to gchat with my friends Johnny and Charlie Shryock. I also was able to send an email to people, telling them we are okay. I checked football scores (Redskins come from behind victory was sweet) and find out my fantasy football team fell apart this week. All-in-all, it's good. We are now waiting for our flight to Kinshasa, which will take off in eight hours. I can't wait to get to Aketi and finish traveling. We are watching Shawshank Redemption now. I will write again soon, once we have Internet again. Write to you later.
Waiting and More Waiting
It’s definitely better than the last time I was waiting in Addis Ababa, but even in the Cloud Nine Lounge, time is inching by.
We keep checking the Departure Board, and our flight vacillates between going directly to Kinshasa and stopping at Brazzaville (Republic of Congo - the other Congo) first. Either way, we should get to Kinshasa at about 1.
Thank goodness for my preparedness -- I had not one but several adapters that would work with these British plugs in Addis Ababa. (Extra features mean added value)
So both Adam and I could plug in our laptops and entertain ourselves for the first 4 hours of waiting -- he with Techmo Superbowl and me with Shawshank Redemption.
But the hours creep on, and I can’t help but wish we were already in Aketi, getting ready to unpack, having a beer with Cleve and finally exhaling the last bit of breath I’ve been storing up for an emergency these last few weeks.
Will our luggage be there when we arrive in Kinshasa? Will our ride?
...Questions only time can answer...
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)